Company in an Interior

ca. 1654
Physical Description:
71 x 73 cm
Date Depicted:
1500 AD - 1699 AD
oil on canvas
Velvet and satin are combined in this dramatic gown. Back seams are emphasized with braid. The skirt falls in a small train.
Referring primarily to England during the reign of Charles I, Cavalier dress marks a distinct change. Most important, starch, stiffness, and boning disappear. Fabrics are undecorated. Satin and velvet are cut to enhance their natural soft folds. Slashing, which is limited to the sleeve, is long and vertical. Trim is confined to buttons, buttonholes, and lace. The bodice neckline is cut wide and square to reveal the bosom. Gradually, as padding is removed and boning reduced, the waistline rises. The bodice looks jacket-like. It often has overlapping tabs in the form of a continuous, flaring peplum. The front lacing is covered by an artfully embroidered plastron which is no longer rigid. Sleeves lose their bombast by 1630. They are quite full and drape softly to just below the elbow. For the first time in centuries the lower arm is revealed. Sleeves are either finished in buttons and buttonholes or paned with soft strips of fabric. Cuffs fit easily, usually matching the collar. The skirt is full. It hangs in soft folds from cartridge pleats attached at the waistband. Satin is shown off in an entirely new way. Hooded and wide, full capes are often worn with masks. In the Netherlands a popular indoor wrap is a hip-length jacket with wide, three-quarter- length sleeves. Jewelry is used modestly. Pearls are most common. As a result of the arm being uncovered, pearls are made into bracelets for the first time. Pearl chokers replace the ruff, and pearl-drop earrings, especially becoming with the curly hairstyles, are in fashion again. Shoes follow the masculine styles with heels, a long vamp, and a lachet over the instep.
Variant Titles:
Fatherly Admonition
Associated Names:
Borch, Gerard ter, the younger, 1617-1681 [Painter]
Costume -- Europe -- History -- (LC)
Painting -- Netherlands -- 17th century -- (YVRC)
Accession Number:
costume (mode of fashion) (AAT)
paintings (AAT)
Content Type:
Clothing & Accessories
Paintings & Drawings
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Access Restrictions:
Yale Community Only
Source Creator:
Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen
Source Title:
History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 4
Source Created:
New York, NY
Theatre Arts Slide Presentations
Call Number:
GT513 +B87 4 (LC)
Orbis Barcode:
Yale Collection:
Visual Resources Collection
Digital Collection:
Visual Resources Collection
Original Repository:
Amsterdam, Netherlands: Rijksmuseum