Sketches and Cartoons: Her first appearance in this costume
Gibson, Charles Dana, 1867-1944
1850 AD - 1899 AD
The bathing suit is part of the wardrobe of the newly liberated woman. At first it is made of heavy wool serge or knits. Usually it is trimmed with a sailor collar. The skirt is knee length and over bloomers. Dark stockings and shoes complete the ensemble
In the 1890s the bodice is built on a snug, boned interlining. It fits smoothly and neatly in back and on the sides. Fullness is concentrated in front between the two French dart lines, where the dress is draped, pleated, or gathered. The waist is attached to a shaped belt which sits outside the skirt. The sleeve is the most important dress detail. In the early '90s the silhouette is narrow and high shouldered. The gathering at the top of the shoulders develops into large puffs. By 1896 sleeves are immense, often as large as three yards around; they are supported inside by three coils. In 1898 fitted sleeves return to fashion. The skirt widens with the sleeves, nine yards around at its widest. It is gored in front and gathered in back. By 1893 it fits smoothly over the hips and swings out in back. An important skirt feature of the 1890s is its overall stiffness and organ-pipe pleats in back. The silhouette changes in 1900 with the straight-front corset. A heavy busk at the center front forces the body into a "kangaroo bend." The bust leads the body. The abdomen curves inward and the hips curve out in back. The dress is one piece, loosely bloused in front and trimmed with berthas and yokes. Fabrics soften as stiffening disappears. Most popular are lingerie fabrics of cotton, lace, and tulle. In 1908, as part of the development toward freer movement, a new sheath corset creates a bosomless and hipless figure.
Costume -- United States -- History -- (LC) Painting -- United States -- 19th century -- (YVRC)
Turn of the Century
costume (mode of fashion) (AAT) drawings (AAT)
Clothing & Accessories Paintings & Drawings
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Related Exhibit or Resource:
Turn of the Century: 1890-1910: Dress: Women
Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen
History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 5
New York, NY Theatre Arts Slide Presentations 1975
GT513 +B87 5 (LC)
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