Earth in Summer Dress: Detail

Published/Created:
1000-1100
Date Depicted:
1975
500 AD - 1499 AD
Notes:
The gown is cut straight and belted at the natural waist. Wide flaring sleeves are slightly pointed.
Abstract:
During this long transitional period, there is a gradual change in dress from the unfitted tunic to a graceful princess-line gown. The skirt widens and lengthens. The torso is more fitted. Sleeves are extended. In the early centuries the most common garments are degraded variations of the dalmatica and tunica tolaris. The kirtle appears in the twelfth century. A distinctive princess-line garment, it is modestly shaped to reveal the torso and has a flaring skirt. It pulls on over the head. Additional fit is achieved by lacing under the arms. It is cut from narrowly loomed pieces of fabric joined lengthwise. Gores can be added to the skirt for extra fullness. A chemise is under the kirtle, sometimes apparent through the laces. The bliaud is the first shapely gown. Confined to the gentry, it is over the kirtle and tightly shaped through the torso. Sleeves widen sharply below the elbow to full, long points. The neckline is V-shaped. A shaped corselet of leather or stretch fabric starts under the bust and fits low on the hips. Two elaborately jeweled belts are over the corselet, one encircling the hips and the other the waist. A buckle fastens the hip belt, the ends hanging in front to below the knees. The bliaud is often shorter than the kirtle and is finished with jeweled borders on all its edges.
Topics:
Manuscripts -- Italy -- 11th century -- (YVRC)
Period/Style:
Romanesque
Culture:
Italian
Accession Number:
4388-209
Genre:
costume (mode of fashion): clothing (AAT)
illustrated manuscripts (AAT)
Format:
Image
Content Type:
Archives or Manuscripts
Paintings & Drawings
Rights:
The use of this image may be subject to the copyright law of the United States (Title 17, United States Code) or to site license or other rights management terms and conditions. The person using the image is liable for any infringement.
Access Restrictions:
Yale Community Only
Source Creator:
Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen
Source Title:
History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 1
Source Created:
New York, NY
Theatre Arts Slide Presentations
1975
Call Number:
GT513 +B87 1 (LC)
Orbis Barcode:
39002051938497
Yale Collection:
Visual Resources Collection
Digital Collection:
Visual Resources Collection
Original Repository:
Bari, Italy: Cathedral
Extent of digitization:
E.3
OID:
10542905
PID:
digcoll:1861360