Though no longer padded, the doublet is stiff until about 1625. It is pointed in front and has a flared peplum at the hips. The waist is outlined by points or ribbon bows, which hold the doublet and breeches together. After 1630 the doublet is short waisted. The front and peplum are sometimes cut-in-one, or the peplum is made of overlapping panels. Sleeves are trimmed with horizontal rows of braid. In another version the sleeves are vertically slashed from armscye to wrist and finished with buttons and buttonholes. A shirt appears through the slashes. Wide cuffs, matching the collar and usually white, finish the wrists. Now the jerkin is a separate utility jacket. Often made of leather, in front it is buttoned or fastened with frogs. Until 1650 it is sleeveless and has long skirts. Gradually disappearing, pumpkin or melon hose are replaced by full, long breeches, which are often trimmed in front with a diagonal ladder of braid. Sometimes a vertical slash at the sides is finished in buttons and buttonholes. Tubular breeches appear after 1630. They are wide at the top, narrow at the bottom, and fall six inches below the knee. They too have a vertical slash at the sides. Typical of the new softness, hose are carefully wrinkled. They are knitted of heavy silk, wool, or cotton. Capes come in all sizes in this post-cloak-and-dagger period. The most popular are long, full and flowing. The collar falls limply. Attached under the cape are long cords which permit it to be worn in a variety of ways. Early in the period shoes have a long vamp and round tip; by the end the tip is square. Heels are moderately high and, in the case of French nobility, are often painted red. Side pieces fasten over long tongues. The lachet is covered by a shoe rose, which gradually is replaced by stiff ribbons. Boots equipped with spurs are very popular. They are fitted to the calf, then widen out to a deep cuff. The cuff is usually turned down and faced in contrasting red leather. It is cut in scallops and lined in a separate flounce of lace called boot-hose.
Costume -- Europe -- History -- (LC) Painting -- Spain -- 17th century -- (YVRC)
costume (mode of fashion) (AAT) paintings (AAT)
Clothing & Accessories Paintings & Drawings
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Related Exhibit or Resource:
Cavalier: 1615-1650: Dress: Men
Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen
History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 4
New York, NY Theatre Arts Slide Presentations 1975
GT513 +B87 4 (LC)
Visual Resources Collection
Visual Resources Collection
Madrid, Spain: Museo del Prado
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