Outside of Spain, where the farthingale is no longer used, the center front continues to be trimmed in braid. The overskirt is open and draped back softly.
Throughout most of the period women dress in the baroque style established in the time of the Cavaliers. After 1692 the gown stiffens and becomes narrow, and the silhouette is extended by a long train and a tall headdress. Hair has a natural appearance until the last years of the century. Then front and side hair is built up into a high formal arrangement. Back hair is covered by a lace coif. A fanlike shape made of accordion-pleated lace is attached at the top of the head and tilted forward. This hair arrangement has several names, including the fontange, commode, and tower. The bodice has a low and wide drop shoulder, usually fitted with a lace bertha. Often the low-cut neckline is filled in with a kerchief. The peplum becomes a series of small tabs at the waist, with the largest tab at the center front. The front of the bodice is trimmed in a ladder of ribbons. The waist is quite long and pointed. An overskirt is open at the center front, draped softly to both sides and held in place with rosettes. Frequently an under-propper supports the train of the overskirt. Added to formal dress for the first time is a knee-length apron made of lace. The nightrail, a short lace cape, just covers the tops of the shoulders. Before limited to the boudoir, now it is used for street and dress wear. The men's cassock is adopted as a riding habit. It is over a long skirt. A cravat and the tricorne are adopted too.
Borch, Gerard ter, the younger, 1617-1681 [Painter]
Costume -- Europe -- History -- (LC) Painting -- Netherlands -- 17th century -- (YVRC)
Louis XIV style
costume (mode of fashion) (AAT) paintings (AAT)
Clothing & Accessories Paintings & Drawings
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Related Exhibit or Resource:
Reign of Louis XIV: 1650-1700: Dress: Women
Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen
History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 4
New York, NY Theatre Arts Slide Presentations 1975
GT513 +B87 4 (LC)
Visual Resources Collection
Visual Resources Collection
Saint Petersburg, Russia: State Hermitage Museum
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