Monumenta Scenica: Death of Charles III: Detail: Stefano Doria
1975 1500 AD - 1699 AD
For a funeral procession a long black gown is over a jerkin and pumpkin hose.
In a shortened form, the male silhouette repeats the shape of the woman's farthingale. It is narrow through the torso and full at the hips. A tight interlining pinches the waist under the doublet. The front is padded into a slightly protruding shape. In France the protrusion, known as the peascod-belly, is shaped almost like a hook. In Italy the doublet follows the natural shape of the body; it is interlined but not stiff. The most common sleeve is slightly full at the armscye and tapers to the wrist. A more Conservative Elizabethan sleeve is about the width of a normal coat sleeve. The very wide leg-o'mutton, which is padded for smoothness, is preferred in France. Ruffs finish the sleeves at the wrist. Sometimes a fitted jerkin is over the doublet. It is often fastened with ornamental buttons all the way down the front. Sleeves, if any, are open hanging and reveal the doublet sleeve underneath. The armholes are usually trimmed with a shoulder wing or crescent roll. Breeches (upper stocks) appear in many forms. The most important are the following: two crescent-shaped, padded rolls which fit around the hip; pumpkin hose, which are usually paned and sometimes padded; canions, tight breeches which fit just above the knee; venetians, longer and somewhat padded breeches which fasten below the knee; and slops, large unpadded breeches. Hose are worn with breeches, covering the lower part of the leg. They are knitted of silk or heavy wool; sometimes, as in previous periods, they are cut from cloth. Clock-work appears on the knitted hose. Garters are functional and decorative. Frequently symbolic of an order, they are just above one or both knees. Cross-gartering is a second style. Capes are an important part of Elizabethan dress. They are short, stiff, and have a high standing collar. Shoes are slightly wedged and have no heel. Around 1600 the first heel appears; it is often painted red. Over the instep are shoe roses of large ribbon puffs. Mules (pantofles) protect shoes in bad weather. Boots hug the knee and flare out on top.
Costume -- Europe -- History -- (LC) Prints -- Italy -- 17th century -- (YVRC)
costume (mode of fashion) (AAT) illustrated manuscripts (AAT)
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Related Exhibit or Resource:
Elizabethan (Men): 1550-1615: Dress
Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen
History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 3
New York, NY Theatre Arts Slide Presentations 1975
GT513 +B87 3 (LC)
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