Secretary Dobbin

Johnson, Eastman, 1824-1906
Date Depicted:
1850 AD - 1899 AD
Medium-length hair, flat lapels, and a narrow cravat are typical. Notice the natural shoulder line.
Dress is easier to fit, subdued in color, and codified in use. The two surviving forms are the tailcoat and the frock coat, usually single breasted. The coat collar lies flat on the shoulders, which are natural in line. Sleeves fit smoothly into the armhole. Two new garments, the morning coat and the sack coat, appear in the early 1850s. The morning coat develops from cutaway versions of the frock coat used for riding. The sack coat, formerly a style for young boys and workers, is a casual garment. The waistcoat for day wear is usually single breasted with a roll collar. It is made of a fabric which matches the jacket or trousers, or both. For casual wear, a double-breasted version is preferred. The evening waistcoat is single breasted with the deep V-shaped neckline still common today. Tubular trousers fit smoothly at the waist. During the 1850s they strap under the foot as before. They are neither creased nor cuffed. By 1860 the strap is limited to evening wear, and the trouser lengthens to cover the shoe. Collars are starched and standing for evening. For comfort the turned-down collar replaces the standing collar. Hair is usually long enough to cover the ears in front and falls to the top of the collar in back. A revived interest in facial hair leads to a variety of new styles, including beards with mustaches, muttonchop whiskers, sidebeards, and mustaches without beards. The top hat is generally accepted for day or evening. New hats include the bowler, the cap, and a low-crowned, wide-brimmed hat. The elastic-sided garter is the basic shoe. In 1860 the laced shoe is introduced. Accessories include the monocle, walking canes, and light-colored gloves. Functional jewelry is limited to cuff links, collar studs, tie pins, and watch chains.
Costume -- United States -- History -- (LC)
Painting -- United States -- 19th century -- (YVRC)
Accession Number:
costume (mode of fashion) (AAT)
drawings (AAT)
Content Type:
Clothing & Accessories
Paintings & Drawings
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Access Restrictions:
Yale Community Only
Source Creator:
Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen
Source Title:
History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 5
Source Created:
New York, NY
Theatre Arts Slide Presentations
Call Number:
GT513 +B87 5 (LC)
Orbis Barcode:
Yale Collection:
Visual Resources Collection
Digital Collection:
Visual Resources Collection
Original Repository:
Andover, MA: Addison Gallery of American Art