Richard Sackville, Third Earl of Dorset

Oliver, Isaac, I, ca. 1565-1617
Physical Description:
23.5 x 15.3 cm
Date Depicted:
1500 AD - 1699 AD
watercolor on vellum
Gold clock-work is embroidered at the base of the hose. Braid is used emphatically on the seamlines and piccadil trim of the doublet. Pumpkin hose are paned and decorated with braid, small moons, suns, and stars. The white shoes have large gold roses and a small heel.
In a shortened form, the male silhouette repeats the shape of the woman's farthingale. It is narrow through the torso and full at the hips. A tight interlining pinches the waist under the doublet. The front is padded into a slightly protruding shape. In France the protrusion, known as the peascod-belly, is shaped almost like a hook. In Italy the doublet follows the natural shape of the body; it is interlined but not stiff. The most common sleeve is slightly full at the armscye and tapers to the wrist. A more Conservative Elizabethan sleeve is about the width of a normal coat sleeve. The very wide leg-o'mutton, which is padded for smoothness, is preferred in France. Ruffs finish the sleeves at the wrist. Sometimes a fitted jerkin is over the doublet. It is often fastened with ornamental buttons all the way down the front. Sleeves, if any, are open hanging and reveal the doublet sleeve underneath. The armholes are usually trimmed with a shoulder wing or crescent roll. Breeches (upper stocks) appear in many forms. The most important are the following: two crescent-shaped, padded rolls which fit around the hip; pumpkin hose, which are usually paned and sometimes padded; canions, tight breeches which fit just above the knee; venetians, longer and somewhat padded breeches which fasten below the knee; and slops, large unpadded breeches. Hose are worn with breeches, covering the lower part of the leg. They are knitted of silk or heavy wool; sometimes, as in previous periods, they are cut from cloth. Clock-work appears on the knitted hose. Garters are functional and decorative. Frequently symbolic of an order, they are just above one or both knees. Cross-gartering is a second style. Capes are an important part of Elizabethan dress. They are short, stiff, and have a high standing collar. Shoes are slightly wedged and have no heel. Around 1600 the first heel appears; it is often painted red. Over the instep are shoe roses of large ribbon puffs. Mules (pantofles) protect shoes in bad weather. Boots hug the knee and flare out on top.
Costume -- Europe -- History -- (LC)
Painting -- Britain -- 17th century -- (YVRC)
Accession Number:
costume (mode of fashion) (AAT)
paintings (AAT)
Content Type:
Clothing & Accessories
Paintings & Drawings
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Access Restrictions:
Yale Community Only
Source Creator:
Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen
Source Title:
History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 3
Source Created:
New York, NY
Theatre Arts Slide Presentations
Call Number:
GT513 +B87 3 (LC)
Orbis Barcode:
Yale Collection:
Visual Resources Collection
Digital Collection:
Visual Resources Collection
Original Repository:
London, England: National Portrait Gallery