Girl Sewing

Date Depicted:
1975
1500 AD - 1699 AD
Notes:
The hip-length jacket of the Netherlands lined in fur.
Abstract:
Referring primarily to England during the reign of Charles I, Cavalier dress marks a distinct change. Most important, starch, stiffness, and boning disappear. Fabrics are undecorated. Satin and velvet are cut to enhance their natural soft folds. Slashing, which is limited to the sleeve, is long and vertical. Trim is confined to buttons, buttonholes, and lace. The bodice neckline is cut wide and square to reveal the bosom. Gradually, as padding is removed and boning reduced, the waistline rises. The bodice looks jacket-like. It often has overlapping tabs in the form of a continuous, flaring peplum. The front lacing is covered by an artfully embroidered plastron which is no longer rigid. Sleeves lose their bombast by 1630. They are quite full and drape softly to just below the elbow. For the first time in centuries the lower arm is revealed. Sleeves are either finished in buttons and buttonholes or paned with soft strips of fabric. Cuffs fit easily, usually matching the collar. The skirt is full. It hangs in soft folds from cartridge pleats attached at the waistband. Satin is shown off in an entirely new way. Hooded and wide, full capes are often worn with masks. In the Netherlands a popular indoor wrap is a hip-length jacket with wide, three-quarter- length sleeves. Jewelry is used modestly. Pearls are most common. As a result of the arm being uncovered, pearls are made into bracelets for the first time. Pearl chokers replace the ruff, and pearl-drop earrings, especially becoming with the curly hairstyles, are in fashion again. Shoes follow the masculine styles with heels, a long vamp, and a lachet over the instep.
Associated Names:
Maes, Nicolaes, 1634-1693 [Painter]
Topics:
Costume -- Europe -- History -- (LC)
Painting -- Netherlands -- 17th century -- (YVRC)
Period/Style:
Cavalier
Culture:
Dutch
Accession Number:
4391-020
Genre:
costume (mode of fashion) (AAT)
paintings (AAT)
Format:
Image
Content Type:
Clothing & Accessories
Paintings & Drawings
Rights:
The use of this image may be subject to the copyright law of the United States (Title 17, United States Code) or to site license or other rights management terms and conditions. The person using the image is liable for any infringement.
Access Restrictions:
Yale Community Only
Source Creator:
Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen
Source Title:
History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 4
Source Created:
New York, NY
Theatre Arts Slide Presentations
1975
Call Number:
GT513 +B87 4 (LC)
Orbis Barcode:
39002051938463
Yale Collection:
Visual Resources Collection
Digital Collection:
Visual Resources Collection
OID:
10608576
PID:
digcoll:1806195