Prince James Francis Edward Stuart and Princess Louisa Maria Theresa Stuart

Physical Description:
192.8 x 145.7 cm
Date Depicted:
1500 AD - 1699 AD
oil on canvas
In the new fashion of the 1690s, the young girl is in a fontage and apron, and the young man in a cassock with a wide, stiffened shirt. The dress has a matching train. The under-propper falls from the shoulders and is looped under the skirt.
Throughout most of the period women dress in the baroque style established in the time of the Cavaliers. After 1692 the gown stiffens and becomes narrow, and the silhouette is extended by a long train and a tall headdress. Hair has a natural appearance until the last years of the century. Then front and side hair is built up into a high formal arrangement. Back hair is covered by a lace coif. A fanlike shape made of accordion-pleated lace is attached at the top of the head and tilted forward. This hair arrangement has several names, including the fontange, commode, and tower. The bodice has a low and wide drop shoulder, usually fitted with a lace bertha. Often the low-cut neckline is filled in with a kerchief. The peplum becomes a series of small tabs at the waist, with the largest tab at the center front. The front of the bodice is trimmed in a ladder of ribbons. The waist is quite long and pointed. An overskirt is open at the center front, draped softly to both sides and held in place with rosettes. Frequently an under-propper supports the train of the overskirt. Added to formal dress for the first time is a knee-length apron made of lace. The nightrail, a short lace cape, just covers the tops of the shoulders. Before limited to the boudoir, now it is used for street and dress wear. The men's cassock is adopted as a riding habit. It is over a long skirt. A cravat and the tricorne are adopted too.
Associated Names:
Largillière, Nicolas de, 1656-1746 [Painter]
Costume -- Europe -- History -- (LC)
Painting -- France -- 17th century -- (YVRC)
Louis XIV style
Accession Number:
costume (mode of fashion) (AAT)
paintings (AAT)
Content Type:
Clothing & Accessories
Paintings & Drawings
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Access Restrictions:
Yale Community Only
Source Creator:
Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen
Source Title:
History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 4
Source Created:
New York, NY
Theatre Arts Slide Presentations
Call Number:
GT513 +B87 4 (LC)
Orbis Barcode:
Yale Collection:
Visual Resources Collection
Digital Collection:
Visual Resources Collection
Original Repository:
London, England: National Portrait Gallery