linen plain weave, embroidered with silk and metallic threads and spangles; metallic bobbin lace
The jacketline bodice has a natural waistline and a softly flaring peplum. The skirt hangs in soft, natural folds.
Referring primarily to England during the reign of Charles I, Cavalier dress marks a distinct change. Most important, starch, stiffness, and boning disappear. Fabrics are undecorated. Satin and velvet are cut to enhance their natural soft folds. Slashing, which is limited to the sleeve, is long and vertical. Trim is confined to buttons, buttonholes, and lace. The bodice neckline is cut wide and square to reveal the bosom. Gradually, as padding is removed and boning reduced, the waistline rises. The bodice looks jacket-like. It often has overlapping tabs in the form of a continuous, flaring peplum. The front lacing is covered by an artfully embroidered plastron which is no longer rigid. Sleeves lose their bombast by 1630. They are quite full and drape softly to just below the elbow. For the first time in centuries the lower arm is revealed. Sleeves are either finished in buttons and buttonholes or paned with soft strips of fabric. Cuffs fit easily, usually matching the collar. The skirt is full. It hangs in soft folds from cartridge pleats attached at the waistband. Satin is shown off in an entirely new way. Hooded and wide, full capes are often worn with masks. In the Netherlands a popular indoor wrap is a hip-length jacket with wide, three-quarter- length sleeves. Jewelry is used modestly. Pearls are most common. As a result of the arm being uncovered, pearls are made into bracelets for the first time. Pearl chokers replace the ruff, and pearl-drop earrings, especially becoming with the curly hairstyles, are in fashion again. Shoes follow the masculine styles with heels, a long vamp, and a lachet over the instep.
Costume -- Britain -- 17th century -- (YVRC) Costume -- England -- History -- (LC)
costume (mode of fashion): jackets (garments) (AAT)
Clothing & Accessories
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Related Exhibit or Resource:
Cavalier: 1615-1650: Dress: Women
Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen
History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 4
New York, NY Theatre Arts Slide Presentations 1975
GT513 +B87 4 (LC)
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