The greatcoat is made in the basic cassock form. Fabric is heavy and practical. This example has a collar which closes around the neck.
Now proportioned to the natural lines of the body, men's dress is cut and tailored with style and elegance. It is rich in fabric and restrained in detail. The neck of the shirt is headed with a band. As before, the neck-cloth is edged in lace and looped into a cravat. The cuffs of the sleeves are finished in a ruffle. The cassock develops a wide flaring skirt which is stiffened. To show off the rich waistcoat, it is cut away. In this form the cassock is known as the justacorps. Both the justacorps and waistcoat are finished all the way down the front with decorative buttons and buttonholes. Buttons are an important feature; often they are beautifully embroidered. Pockets at the side hip are also finished with buttons. Sleeves are set smoothly into the armhole and fit the arm easily; they end with a cuff at the wrist. Shirt ruffles fall over the hands. The waistcoat is a few inches shorter than the coat. It is made from the coat fabric or a fabric which is lighter in color. In keeping with the trim line of the silhouette, the waistcoat is sleeveless and has a false back. Breeches are cut on the bias and fit tightly through the legs. At the knee they are fastened with a buckle. Extra fullness in the seat is gathered into a waistband. Hose, usually white, are arranged over the breeches. Most shoes are black. A red heel is for nobility. Vamps are long and toes rounded. The tongue is short, and large buckles replace shoe roses. A high top boot fits over the knee and is notched in front.
Hogarth, William, 1697-1764 [Painter]
Costume -- England -- History -- (LC) Painting -- Britain -- 18th century -- (YVRC)
costume (mode of fashion) (AAT) paintings (AAT)
Clothing & Accessories Paintings & Drawings
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Related Exhibit or Resource:
Early Georgian: 1700-1750: Dress: Men
Button, Jeanne and Sbarge, Stephen
History of Costume, In Slides, Notes and Commentaries: Volume 4
New York, NY Theatre Arts Slide Presentations 1975
GT513 +B87 4 (LC)
Visual Resources Collection
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London, England: Foundling Hospital
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